In a season saturated with spectacle and maximalist expression, Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 menswear collection in Milan offered a masterclass in restraint, elegance, and thoughtful tailoring. Co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continue to forge their joint design language—one that is as exacting as it is forward-thinking. Focusing on the architecture of clothing, the duo stripped back the noise to reimagine classic menswear through the lens of contemporary minimalism and youthful energy.
A silhouette-led study of classics
The collection opened with a trio of sharply tailored all-black suits—sleek, uniform, and built with angular precision. From the first look, it was clear: Prada and Simons were not chasing trends. Instead, they were editing tradition. Archetypes of menswear—overcoats, suits, leather, and denim—were all present, but each reinterpreted with subtle defiance. The duo explored form as discipline, using slim, body-conscious cuts as an intentional rejection of the oversized silhouettes dominating current runways.
There’s nothing nostalgic about these suits. While rooted in familiarity, they were recoded to reflect a new mood—youthful but structured, elegant yet uncomplicated. Each piece functioned like a line in a poem: precise, clean, and deliberate. This was tailoring as a philosophy, not just a fit.
Textural dialogues and engineered freshness
If the tailoring was a thesis, then the textures provided the counterpoint. Leather and denim were pushed into unexpected territory, appearing as cropped zippered shorts, fitted button-downs, and sculpted outerwear. Horizontal knits and vibrant checkered pieces added rhythm, while the interplay of sheen and matte grounded the looks in quiet versatility. It was a textural push-and-pull—lean silhouettes balancing the tactile boldness of fabric.
Prada and Simons’ engineering of garments extends beyond form. There is an undercurrent of rebellious clarity in their decision to reduce rather than embellish. In a moment when fashion seems eager to shout, their whisper is loudest. The use of fabric becomes narrative; the design, a restrained gesture toward permanence.
Casualwear with intention, not compromise
One of the most distinctive qualities of the Prada-Simons partnership is their treatment of casualwear—not as filler, but as essential language. Flowing trenches, graphic tees, and slouchy bombers may suggest ease, but they’re constructed with the same precision as the suits. Here, casualwear is not a deviation from luxury—it is luxury, articulated with elegance and clarity.
Accessories followed suit in tonal harmony. Leather hobo bags and structured geometric totes appeared repeatedly, becoming an extension of the garments rather than ornamental afterthoughts. Footwear was equally considered: crisp, pointed-toe boots that added edge and cohesion to the overall silhouette. Paired with retro-inflected aviators, the result was a modern uniform—cool, functional, and quietly seductive.
A new minimalism, grounded in maturity
Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 collection doesn’t rely on theatrics to make its point. Instead, it leans into maturity—eschewing flamboyance in favor of garments that speak through shape, material, and proportion. Miuccia and Raf are not chasing the algorithm; they’re designing for a man who knows himself, who values clarity over chaos, elegance over excess.
The collection’s restraint is not a limitation, but a strength. It brings forth the quiet radicalism of paring down, of making room for craftsmanship to breathe. In a fashion climate obsessed with novelty, Prada’s insistence on the essential feels revolutionary.
And as Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons continue to navigate their shared creative path, Spring/Summer 2023 stands as a confident assertion of their voice: nuanced, intellectual, and refreshingly devoid of noise. A study not in what can be added, but in what must remain.
