From serums to SPFs, our skincare shelves are lined with products promising glow, hydration, and transformation—but what’s happening behind the scenes? Skin + Me takes you inside the lab with Daniel, Head of Research and Development at a global cosmetics consultancy, to uncover how science, creativity, and consumer trends shape the products we use every day. Get ready to rethink what “clean beauty” really means and discover the surprising science behind your favorite formulations.
The science behind the shelf
Every lotion, balm, and cream begins far from the bathroom mirror—inside a lab, guided by the hands of a formulation scientist. As Daniel, R&D head at a major global cosmetics manufacturer, explains, the journey from concept to finished product is equal parts chemistry and creativity.
“We usually begin with a creative brief from a brand,” he says. “Our role is to transform that vision into something real, effective, and elegant.” This process involves not just meeting the brand’s expectations, but navigating subjective descriptors like “light” or “rich” and translating them into a skin feel that users will love. The work, Daniel says, often feels like “half chemistry, half cooking”—an iterative process of testing and tweaking until the ideal product is achieved.
Where chemistry meets creativity
Though Daniel came into cosmetics from a traditional chemistry background, the industry quickly opened his eyes to its creative side. “I used to just use shower gel and the occasional moisturiser,” he laughs. “Now I see how much thought and science goes into every detail.”
As Head of R&D, he not only oversees product development but also trials many of his own formulations. “I don’t often buy commercial cosmetics anymore—except for fragrance. I still use Bleu de Chanel. Some things are just hard to replicate.”
Tried-and-true ingredients that still reign supreme
When asked about his favourite skincare ingredients, Daniel is quick to name glycerin—a humble yet powerful humectant that draws moisture into the skin. “It’s affordable, safe, and incredibly effective,” he explains. “The only downside is it can feel sticky at higher levels, but that’s something we can work around with the right balance.”
He’s also a fan of betaine, another humectant that doubles as an anti-irritant and sustainability win. “It’s made from sugar industry by-products and helps soften glycerin’s stickiness. It’s a great all-rounder.”
Trend vs. truth: When innovation meets reality
Developing new products often requires balancing ambitious creative ideas with scientific realism—and budget. “Innovative briefs are exciting, but we have to guide clients toward what’s feasible,” Daniel says. For example, the trend toward waterless cosmetics makes environmental sense but presents technical challenges in formulation and stability.
He adds that benchmark products—existing market references—are essential for these discussions. “It’s not about copying, it’s about using them as a sensory starting point. A benchmark helps us talk about texture or skin feel in real, tangible terms.”
The myth of ‘clean’ beauty
One of the biggest challenges in modern cosmetics? Misinformation. Daniel sees firsthand how public perception can overrule science, especially when it comes to synthetic ingredients. “Parabens are one example. Despite a strong safety profile backed by decades of research, consumer confidence is low.”
This shift has led to the use of alternative preservatives like isothiazolinones, which, though approved, can cause higher rates of skin sensitisation. Sulphates suffer a similar fate—vilified in public discourse despite their proven efficacy and safety in well-formulated products.
Navigating the natural vs. Synthetic debate
Daniel doesn’t oppose “natural” formulations—if that’s what the brief requires—but cautions against blindly equating natural with better. “Some of the most irritating substances in our lab are essential oils. They’re 100% natural, but they can be highly caustic.”
He believes it’s time for the industry and consumers alike to adopt a more nuanced view. “Sodium hydroxide, for example, is incredibly harsh on its own. But used correctly to balance pH, it makes a product more skin-friendly.” The key takeaway? Context and concentration matter more than origin.
Functionality first: The role of Synthetics
While natural ingredients may headline marketing campaigns, it’s often the synthetics working behind the scenes that make a product perform. “Synthetics like emulsifiers and polyacrylamides improve texture, stability, and absorption,” Daniel says. “They’re not the ‘hero’ ingredients, but they’re crucial.”
Silicones, in particular, remain controversial. “They’ve been mischaracterized as harmful, but they’re incredibly versatile, safe, and deliver that silky skin feel consumers love.”
Packaging: More than just aesthetic
Packaging isn’t just a branding decision—it influences how a product is formulated and preserved. “A jar exposes products to air and bacteria every time it’s opened, so we often increase preservatives for stability,” Daniel explains. “Tubes are usually more hygienic and protective, but not always suitable—like for thick hair clays.”
Other considerations include UV exposure, shipping weight, and recyclability. “Glass jars may look premium, but they’re heavy and not always eco-friendly. There’s always a trade-off between science, marketing, and sustainability.”
Absorption and skin barriers: Beyond molecule size
Contrary to popular belief, molecule size isn’t the sole factor in determining skin penetration. “It’s also about solubility and formulation,” Daniel clarifies. “While extremely large molecules won’t penetrate deeply, you can’t reduce absorption to size alone.”
Understanding the complexity of the skin barrier—and the interaction of ingredients with it—is a crucial part of formulation science. Simplistic claims like “this penetrates to deeper layers” often gloss over the true science.
Are day, night, and eye creams really different?
From a formulation perspective, many creams share a base structure: water phase, oil phase, actives, humectants, and preservatives. What differentiates them is their specific purpose. “Day creams tend to be lighter and may include SPF, while night creams are richer and restorative,” Daniel explains. “Eye creams might have light-diffusing ingredients or specific activities to target puffiness or fine lines.”
Ultimately, the difference lies more in function and texture than in fundamental ingredients—though packaging and consumer expectations play their part.
Choose Science Over Sensationalism
As consumer demand evolves, Daniel believes the most important shift must be toward education and evidence. “People are beginning to see through greenwashing and seek out brands that are transparent and backed by science.”
In a world awash with marketing buzzwords and viral trends, the real magic is happening in the lab—where chemistry, creativity, and care come together to create the products we trust on our skin.
