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Viral in the East, vital to the West: Asia’s hold on the Lyst Index

The Lyst Index for Q1 2025, released this week, confirms what fashion insiders have long observed: Asia’s influence on global luxury is no longer emerging—it’s commanding. From Chinese consumers fueling revenue growth to K-pop ambassadors sending sneaker trends viral, the Asia-Pacific (APAC) region has become a decisive force in driving brand success, trend momentum, and market shifts worldwide.

Shifts at the top: Creative shake-ups and viral moments

This quarter saw notable changes in the Lyst Index rankings. Ralph Lauren jumped six spots, while Loewe climbed three, thanks in large part to viral buzz surrounding Jonathan Anderson’s announced departure and his final collection. Search volume for Loewe surged 38% in the wake of the news.

Chloé, under the leadership of new creative director Chemena Kamali, saw a major comeback—rising 10 places to re-enter the Index for the first time since its inception in 2021. Meanwhile, fast-fashion favorite Cos soared 11 spots, reflecting consumer appetite for affordable luxury.

On the flip side, brands like Skims, Valentino, and Moncler saw drops of three to four places, indicating that celebrity backing and legacy appeal are no longer guaranteed insulation from changing market dynamics.

Asia in the driver’s seat

One of the strongest takeaways from Q1 is APAC’s multi-pronged influence. Ralph Lauren’s leap, for example, is directly tied to its Q3 FY2025 performance in China, where the brand hosted a high-profile Shanghai runway show. The event’s dedicated hashtag garnered over one million likes on Chinese social platforms, helping push Ralph Lauren to a 20% year-on-year revenue increase in the region.

Loewe’s rise, too, owes much to its sophisticated local strategy. Beyond buzz around Anderson’s exit, the brand has focused sharply on content tailored for China’s Douyin platform and has appointed Yang Mi and Wang Yibo—two of China’s most influential celebrities—as ambassadors. These choices are not just strategic; they’re resonating.

And then there’s the footwear category, where the “sneakerina” trend—a mashup of ballet flats and athletic kicks—has exploded, thanks largely to Asian taste-makers. Adidas’ taekwondo sneakers and Puma’s Speedcat ballet flats ranked second and third in product searches, boosted by endorsements from stars like Blackpink’s Rosé, a Puma ambassador whose influence triggered viral traction.

The double-edged sword of Asia’s influence

While Asia is driving growth and hype, it’s also becoming a stress test for brands. Richemont-owned Chloé may be climbing the Lyst ranks, but Richemont itself reported an 18% year-on-year decline in mainland China sales in Q4 2024. Similarly, Valentino’s four-place drop in the Index aligns with its recent market struggles in Asia, where it failed to gain momentum against stronger local competition and changing consumer tastes.

This dynamic highlights the region’s dual nature: it is both a growth engine and a litmus test for adaptability. If brands can’t localize strategy and remain culturally relevant, even high fashion houses risk losing their footing in Asia—and, by extension, globally.

Under pressure: Skims and moncler face headwinds

Skims, Kim Kardashian’s shapewear empire, dropped four places—perhaps a sign of increasing competition and changing preferences. Newer, cult-favorite wellness brands like Adanola and Alo Yoga are gaining traction in both Western and Eastern markets, cutting into Skims’ share. Moreover, the brand has faced boycotts and criticism that may be beginning to impact sentiment.

Moncler, too, slipped slightly. Despite staging high-visibility “Genius” events in Shanghai and London, the brand is navigating a market pivot toward “quiet luxury”—a movement favoring understated elegance over logo-heavy aesthetics. While Moncler has been a symbol of bold, branded style, adapting to the new mood will be essential to sustain relevance.

More than a trend: APAC as a power core

Q1 2025’s Lyst Index proves that Asia is not just influencing global fashion—it’s defining it. From product virality to brand perception, the region plays an increasingly central role in determining who wins and who lags in the luxury game.

As brands scramble to secure APAC ambassadors, craft locally resonant campaigns, and respond to shifting cultural winds, the message is clear: regional relevance is now a global imperative. Whether it’s the meteoric rise of Ralph Lauren in China, or the crash of global names due to Asia-specific headwinds, the data speaks volumes.

The East sets the pace

The Q1 2025 Lyst Index is more than a popularity contest—it’s a mirror reflecting the shifting center of fashion gravity. Asia is no longer a secondary market or emerging opportunity. It is the pace-setter, tastemaker, and competitive proving ground for luxury brands.

In a landscape defined by digital virality, celebrity influence, and hyper-local strategy, APAC’s role will only grow. For global fashion players, the message is unmistakable: adapt, engage, and invest—or risk being left behind.

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